THE GREAT USUMACINTA RIVER ADVENTURE
(or how I spent my summer winter vacation)

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Busiljá

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Busiljá is a river that forms a spectacular waterfalls at its confluence with the Usumacinta. Because of the low water level of the river, it might appear even more spectacular than during the rainier parts of the year. It is actually a series of waterfalls and pools, one above the one below it, stretching for miles back into the higher elevations of the Lacondon Rainforest.

We camped just upriver from the falls for two days, relaxing, hiking, swimming and exploring. There is a little village, also called Busiljá from where we received additional supplies for the balance of our journey, courtesy of our liason, Willy. A young fellow, Juan, actually brought the stuff in his motorized rowboat. He told us he was a Ch'ol, one of the many ethnic groups that comprise the modern-day Maya. This part of the Mexican state of Chiapas is seventy percent or more indigenous. The Ch'ol are just one of numerousr groups. We invited him and his wife and children to join us for dinner that night and in the dark of night without running lights, guided perhaps only by starlight, they came, visited and then went away.

We were able to hike to the foot of the falls and found that there are clear cool pools with swift water and caves that we could enter by passing through curtains of falling water. they weren't very deep -- not much more than overhangs, really. But the effect of looking through the falling water was not to be soon forgotten.

Our exploratory trips took us above and behind the falls to the river were we found yet more beautiful although smaller falls. These, like the main falls, seemed like somethings out of storybooks, or a TV travel program - not something we were witnessing first hand and in person.

Unfortunately, my camera went for a "swim" at the first pool. Thanks to Cynthia Sinclair for use of the photos of the upper falls. These are some very good photos.

Next stop the confluence of the Rivers Usamacinta and Chacalá.


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